Arrows indicate "training wheels."
There are two sets of these wheels, one set at each end
of the belt. During either service or cleaning you should always
check these wheels to be free spinning and not stuck or jammed. If
they don't spin freely then they will not be able to do there job and will
likely get cut by the belt when pushed to that side. Once gouged or cut
they need to be replaced. If not replaced then they will damage the edge
of the belt. *Note* The belt is expensive.
Step 1. If the
belt is slipping, to loose, or is continually running off to on side of
the tank then you need to go through this procedure. Start with the
Lifting Treadmill page
as you will probably need to lift the treadmill numerous times to complete
the tracking. And be sure that the water still covers the belt in
order to keep the seals lubricated. The standard water height for this
procedure is just above the rails of the skid plate.
NOTE.
The water temperature is very important in this procedure for reasons other
than your feet while testing the tension. It is important that the water
temperature be the "normal" operating temperature for this machine just
before draining for this procedure. Simply stated; the machine is plastic
and plastic expands when it gets hot. If you adjust the belt cold then
heat it up for operation it will be to tight.
Step 3. After lifting the treadmill, Lifting Treadmill, find the adjustment bolts for the tail pulley.
Notice that I am lifting up on the bottom of the bolt. This keeps the adjustment nut seated in the shaft and clears the head of the bolt for adjustment. When adjusting for overall tension of the belt you have to adjust each side the exact same number of turns, usually counted in 1/6ths of a turn. In order to tighten the belt you turn both bolts clockwise. And of course to loosen the belt you turn both bolts counter-clockwise.
Step 4. Once you get
the overall tension of the belt set then dial in the side to side adjustment.
The proper overall tension is being able to walk on the belt without it
slipping unless you "force" your weight down in pulses or grab the hand
rails and pull yourself down.
Step 5. Now make
small adjustments as necessary until the belt runs centered of the skid
plate. In order to know when it is truly centered you have to refer
back to the top of this page, the "training" wheels. These wheels can make
the belt look centered before it truly is. In order to know if the belt
is touching a wheel on either side simply feel if the wheel is turning
while the belt is running on slow. It is common for the belt to touch a
wheel for only a portion of the belts full lap. As the belts are rarely
perfectly true. Once the belt is no longer touching either side wheel,
or as evenly as possible on both sides, then you have got it. For now.
Step 6. You must now re-check
the overall tension of the belt to see if your side to side adjustments
added up to much in either direction.
Step 7. Once you've
finished the tracking adjustments simply lock the skid plate back in place
with the hold downs and the locking pins then refill for use.