Re-Sealing the window in the Hydro Track is
a lot of work! Luckily it is quite rare.
Not all window leaks require the window to be removed
in order to repair. The first step in sealing a window leak is to simply
tighten the bolts that hold the window in place. This requires that the
outer skins of the window side of the machine be removed. Now you can access
the nuts that hold the window in place. And it is from this side that you
should do the tightening. Have a helper inside the tank to hold the allen
wrench that holds the bolts from turning. These bolts are
sealed with silicone to the window and if they are allowed to turn while
tightening the nuts the silicone will lose its seal.
If
all else fails and you have to remove the window to re-seal it then mask
off the edge of the window before removing it. This helps keep you from
scratching the plex while removing the old silicone. And greatly improves
clean-up when the new silicone dries. Also, remove the hand rail above
the window for better access. It helps to have someone inside the tank
to catch the window as it starts to break loose.
Be
careful to set the window on something soft so that it wont get scratched
while cleaning. Remove all of the old silicone from the window and the
inside of the tank wall.
Tape
the inside edge of the window opening for easier clean-up. Note the
handrail has been removed. A set of spacers to set the window on
during installation will be a big help also. Size them accordingly before
removal of window.
Once
everything is clean and you are ready for the installation make sure that
you have at least 2 full tubes of silicone. We use 100% silicone by GE
in clear "Window & Door" stuff. Whether you are replacing the window
or just re-sealing it the seal spacers, fat toothpicks, are recommended.
Shown here in orange. Place as shown on each of the 4 sides.
Silicone,
applied properly, will hold the spacers in place during the installation.
About 1/4" of the spacer should be between the window and the wall. The
purpose of the spacers is to keep you from squeezing all of the silicone
out from between the wall and window at any point around the window.
Once
you've made your silicone bead all the way around the window. Place the
window in the machine and on the spacers. Then place two bolts in the top
and bottom, for alignment. Then slowly press the window to the wall. Now
you have to put silicone into each bolt hole, save the 4 alignment bolts.
Install the remainder of the bolts into the silicone'd holes. Twist the
bolts as you press them in. This helps to adhere the silicone to the bolt
as you install it. Tighten each of these bolts finger tight. Then remove
the original 4 alignment bolts, seal and re-install.
Battery
drills with an allen wrench tip RULE! Have your helper on the outside of
the tank with a wrench to hold the nuts as you go. Start on the top and
in the center and then go around the window. Look closely at the image.
Notice that the silicone bead on the left is not squished. He started in
the center and is moving clockwise. Also notice that on this first pass
that the silicone is not completely spread to the edge. When you finish
the first pass go right around again with the second pass.
Now
that we are finishing the second pass you only want to tighten until you
begin to see a bead of silicone at the edge of the window. Then tighten
no more tonight. You are also looking for an even seal of silicone behind
the window.
When
done properly you will also have a bead of silicone on the outside. Once
you have it to this point, if at all possible, leave it to cure overnight.
This will give the silicone time to harden. Then tomorrow clean-up will
be easier and when you remove the spacers the silicone won't all come squishing
out. You can replace the hand rail but not the skins at this time. In the
morning you'll want to tighten the nuts 1/8th turn more from the outside
only! This is where you hold the bolt from the inside of the tank and don't
allow it to turn, as much as possible anyway. Then begin clean-up.
Two
reasons for being extremely careful with the knife. One is your fingers.
Two is to not scratch the window or the polypropylene. Scratches will not
come out of either. The reason to use the knife is so as you remove the
bead of silicone you are not pulling any of the silicone out of the seal
area. So very gently, using a sharp knife, trace the edge of the window
opening while constantly holding pressure against the outside edge.
Now
remove the bead and the tape.
Works
on the inside as well.
Now put it all back together.
Be sure to ask the operator or manager of the machine
about the temperature of the water that they fill the machine with. The
laws of physics don't always play on our side here. Plexiglas, or cast
acrylic, and polypropylene expand and contract at different rates. Simply
stated, if your Hydro Track is empty then it is at room temperature. If
you are not using a mixing valve to fill the machine with warn water then
you can bet that the ground water temperature is considerably colder than
room temperature. This causes the polypropylene to contract, shrink, as
well as the Plexiglas window as well as the silicone. And all at different
rates! This thermal shifting at the same time that water pressure is being
applied is believed to contribute directly to the creation of a leak. It
is best to fill with warm water, not hot or cold.